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SCUBA-L  October 2001, Week 4

SCUBA-L October 2001, Week 4

Subject:

SCUBA newcomer questions

From:

Gozum at IS-TJUH <[log in to unmask]>

Reply-To:

Scuba diving discussion list <[log in to unmask]>

Date:

Wed, 24 Oct 2001 12:05:22 -0400

Content-Type:

text/plain

Parts/Attachments:

Parts/Attachments

text/plain (168 lines)

Whoops, Catalin, the link is:
http://scubadiving.com/gear/

Welcome again. First purchases are not your last, so buy now for basic
needs as you progress in the sport, you'll buy better equipment as funds
and experience allow.

Consider a local dive club or areas frequented for training dive students,
like a quarry or a lake in your region, and see as much equipment as
possible on different divers and talk to the experienced ones ... its most
often good impartial review of gear.

If you can't keep up with all the talk about dive equipment or know what
fits you properly, it may be worth buying gear at high prices for the
advice the seller will give you.  In the US, many sellers have an interest
in selling you their stock, so buyer beware.  If you buy from catalogs, I
would allocate some purchases to the dive shop who services your gear to
create good will and keep them in business.

Note www.diveinn.com sell specifically to Romania, and looking over your
gear you can buy much new gear you paid more for second hand at this
website. SCUBA should prioritize getting anyone interested, and physically
qualified, trained to dive. Equipment costs put an extreme barrier to most
people.  A basic Aqualung Calypso can retail at $300, when its available
from catalogs for under $150 with octopus.

Please also see the Rodales scubadiving.com site, as many of your questions
can be answered in great detail there that address basic issues.

>1.1. ISSUE: I bought a second-hand wet suit called Camaro
>http://www.camaro.at/indexe.htm. The suit itself looks in very good shape. I
>can't recognize model but looks similar to Camaro Tropical Suit Bonair.
>1.2. QUESTION: How is this brand? How do you find the price?
>1.3. COST: $225 (second-hand)


For details on fit, see the Rodales link above.  Tropical wetsuits are for
diving at 80+ deg. F,  a full all neoprene 3mm suit new is ~ $90.  Added
cost is a matter of cut, fit, brand, style and markup.  I don't know the
brand, but of hundreds I've seen, functionally they depend all on the
thickness of the neoprene.  For second hand, this suit is costly.



>2. Mask.
>2.1. ISSUE: I bought a Cressi-Sub mask http://www.cressi-sub.it/ The mask
>looks modest but good.
>2.2. QUESTION: How is this brand?
>2.3. COST: $25 (brand new)

Good buy, if it fits well and its not a fake Cressi!


>3. Fins.
>3.1. ISSUE: I don't have decent fins so I must buy a new pair.
>3.2. QUESTION: I intend to buy long fins with open heel, priced about
>$25-to-60. What will be your choice (and why)?
>3.3. COST: -

Why?  Ease of use for all manner of swimming, I know of no complaints
against the Mares Plana Avanti Quattro ... newer technology since Avanti
like split fins, and its higher cost, are still being debated.  Diveinn
sells it new at $70, but _be_ sure of the fit.



>4. Tank.
>4.1. ISSUE: I bought a second-hand 12-liter aluminium tank manufactured in
>1999. Can't identify the original manufacturer.
>4.2. QUESTION: What's the expected lifetime of such tank (I don't like the
>idea of carrying a time bomb on my back)? How can I identify the original
>manufacturer? How do you find the price?
>4.3. COST: $150 (second-hand)

Al tanks can last over 10 years, new.  New tanks rarely fail their first
hydrostatic pressure inspection due every 5 years in the USA.  See Rodales
for deciphering numbers stamped on the neck of the tank.  If your numbers
are not readable, it may be a problem, as it should be clearly marked if
its made for SCUBA.  There have been reports of non-scuba tanks being used
for scuba purposes.   Catalog cost, < $130 new.




>5. Regulator.
>5.1. ISSUE: I bought a Colitri Sub http://www.coltrisub.it/ regulator model
>Ocean C30 INT (featured here
>http://www.coltrisub.it/catalogo/erogatori/pag17.htm ). Looks a bit cheap.
>5.2. QUESTION: Are they still in business (their online catalogue specify
>"copyright 1999")? How do you rate the brand? How do you rate the model? How
>do you find the price?
>5.3.COST: $135 (brand new)

Cost is reasonable but don't know the brand.  Most regulators are CE rated
in Europe by standard EN 250, which is not well regarded in the USA, or by
the US Navy Class a or B standard.  See Rodales for test and details.

For example:
http://www.scubadiving.com/gear/budgetregs/#cefarce


Most brand name regulators are acceptable.  The extra capacity of a
regulator becomes crucial the more unfit you are and unlike 'fair weather'
your diving becomes.  Regulators are rated by: work of breathing at depth,
the faster you breath and deeper you go the more demand you put on the
regulator  .. if you breath a lot in fair weather conditions, you'll be
putting a regulator to the test; reliability; ease of service and use.

Many regulators are not really unique, for example the Aqualung brand is
actually made by a French company for 2 other brands.  The 'best'
manufacturers, build their own entirely.  Nno one complains about Apeks in
the UK, or Scubapro in the US.



>6. Buoyancy Jacket.
>6.1. ISSUE: I don't have such item at all. That store offered me brand-new
>nylon jacket for $330 or second-hand nylon jacket for $200
>6.2. QUESTION: How do you find the prices? What should I look for? What
>would be your budget choice (and why)?
>6.3. COST: -


See Rodales site for reviews and details.  BC must fit, have lifting
capacity, easily inflate and deflate.  Least important are pockets and
rings for attaching gear.  There are BC made specifically for women as male
BCs have shoulder straps that squeeze at the chest.  Buy the cheapest
weight integrated version you can find to save you from wearing a weight
belt.  Models vary by year and locale, but a good all around low cost BC is
the SeaQuest Quickdraw, recently discontinued.





>7. Fitting item (??)
>7.1. ISSUE: The regulator cannot fit into the tank valve. It seems between
>them must be placed an item whose name I don't know.
>7.2. QUESTION: What is this item called? What would be a normal price for
>it?
>7.3. COST: -


Its likely a DIN adapter.



>8. Instruments.
>8.1. ISSUE: Underwater or not, I must be able to control the air pressure
>within the tank (and perhaps perfomr other checkings).
>8.2. QUESTION: What instruments do I need? Where will they be
>fitted/located? What brand should I look for? What prices should I expect?
>8.3. COST: -


You can be relatively confident in buying this mail order from say
www.diveinn.com.  Buy the cheapest name brand console you can get, at least
a depth gauge and a submersible pressure gauge.
 From Mares under $100.

In toto, you can be suitably equipped for ~$1000 US.  Sounds
expensive?  About the same price as a good TV, or the latest good PC.

Warm regards,


Marv

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